Mona Kowalska named her cult New York label ‘A Détacher’, French for ‘to be detached’, simply because she “liked the way it sounded.” However the term also aptly defines her fashion philosophy, “It’s not about me; I want people to notice the designs.” Kowalska spent her formative years designing for a variety of independent labels in Italy and later running the Paris design studio of Sonia Rykiel. Her label has become something of a sleeper hit amongst the New York fashion cognoscenti. This may be due in part to Kowalska’s intriguing mix of sharply edged and architectural jackets, skirts, dresses and knitwear that are grown-up but far from obvious. “I like structure…I like clothing that you put on and feel dressed. For Autumn Winter 2010 texture is key with Jackie O coats, structured flannel shirting, silk georgette shell tops, knitted alpaca tanks and washed velvet jumpsuits being teemed with chunky rib tights and signature strappy wooden platform sandals for a consistently sexy look. Kowalska acknowledges that her label is “just never going to be mass” – precisely what makes it so appealing.